A SWAMP SKIFFSlides through the inky black water. Calloused hands guide the boat past Cypress trees that rise like gnarled Greek columns from out of the swamp. Four women, sisters, faces parchment skinned -- rheumy, coal black eyes that flicker like a lizard scanning for its prey. A sister with a twisted face holds a burning torch, while another uses a machete to hack at overhanging branches.